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geo directory

Some of these questions must be answered by consulting your textbook which correlates with the video series.  Consult: "Physical Geology -Earth Revealed" by Carlson, Plummer and McGeary; published by McGraw Hill, New York City, NY


 24. Waves, Beaches and Coasts 
  This program shows the dynamic interaction of two geologic agents: rocky landmasses and the energy of the ocean. Aspects of waves — their types, parts, movement, and impact on the shore — are illustrated. The program also covers shoreline characteristics, currents, sea barriers, tides, and how the greenhouse effect could impact sea level and coastal lands.

Episode 24: Waves, Beaches, and Coasts

Where do waves get their energy?


What is moving as a wave approaches the coast?


Describe wave motion in detail.


What is wave base? How it is determined?


What happens when wave base intersects the seafloor? Describe in detail.


What is a tsunami? Describe in detail.


What is refraction, and how does it tend to even out an irregular coastline?


Describe how longshore currents transport sediments along the beach face.

What is swash and backwash?


Why do beaches change from season to season?


How do dams affect beach erosion?


How does the moon affect the tides?


How does glacial activity affect sea level?


What is a eustatic sea level change?

How do sand dunes form?

What is the berm, scarp and beach face?


Is the California Coastline emergent or submergent?


How are the use of fossil fuels causing changes in earth's greenhouse levels?


What is the role of the geologist in the protection of the coastlines?

Should the goal of the coastal geologist be to prevent erosion at all costs?

What is a barrier island?

Why are Long Island beaches disappearing?

What is a bay mouth bar?

What is an estuary?

How does the geologist classify coastlines?

How are jetties different than groins?